Espetada. 🥩 Madeira’s traditional beef skewer

Espetada is Madeira’s best-known meat dish. Big chunks of beef (though you’ll also come across pork and chicken), marinated in wine, grilled on bay branches and served on a distinctive iron stand – it’s not just a kebab, it’s a fantastic food experience.

What is espetada?

Espetada is a traditional beef skewer. The meat is cut into large pieces, rubbed with garlic, salt and bay leaf, then marinated for 4–6 hours in Madeira wine, wine vinegar and olive oil.

Its key features:

• The size of the pieces – much bigger than on a standard kebab
• A bay wood skewer – it gives the meat a subtle aroma
• How it’s grilled – over glowing wood chips rather than an ordinary grill
• How it’s served – on a special T-shaped iron stand, with a small plate underneath to catch the juices

Meat cooked this way is incredibly juicy and aromatic. The bay flavour is delicate but noticeable – it isn’t a heavily spiced dish, but the flavours are clear and well balanced.

How is espetada served?

Espetada usually comes with bolo do caco – the local bread made with sweet potato, which goes perfectly with the juicy meat. It’s worth ordering an extra portion of bread with garlic butter – bolo do caco really does suit espetada and helps you mop up all the juices that drip onto the plate underneath.

Portions are often tailored to tourists, so in popular places you may get a smaller portion than in local taverns. In traditional places, espetada can be seriously generous.

Where to eat the best espetada

From my experience: avoid Funchal’s Old Town. The first time I had espetada was right in the city centre – it was mediocre, expensive and clearly aimed at tourists.

My recommendation: O Justiniano Garden in Funchal – that’s where I had the best espetada in Funchal.

General rule: look for taverns and grill bars away from the main tourist trail. Worth trying:

• O Forno (Ponta do Pargo)
• Bolo do Caco Bar & Grill (São Jorge)
• Taberna Madeira (Funchal)

The difference between a local tavern and a touristy restaurant in the centre is huge, in both price and taste.

Practical tips for visitors

The most common mistake is eating in mass-market restaurants in the centre. There, espetada will be pricier, smaller and less appetising.

When to eat it? Espetada is a lunch or dinner dish. You’ll rarely find it on a breakfast menu.

What to order? If it’s your first time, order espetada with bolo do caco (sometimes it’s included, sometimes you have to order it separately – worth asking). Extra garlic butter for the bread is a must.

Other meat dishes in Madeira

If you like espetada, it’s also worth trying other regional meat dishes:

• Carne de vinho e alhos – pork marinated for three days in white wine, vinegar, salt and pepper, served with potatoes, carrots and turnips
• Picado – beef in a mushroom sauce with chips

Espetada holds up very well in comparison – in my opinion it’s Madeira’s best meat dish. The traditional way it’s cooked and served makes it more than a kebab – it’s part of the local food culture.