Madeira Airport (FNC). 🛬 The landing, the wind and getting to Funchal

First landing: a show over the ocean

The first time I flew to Madeira, I was practically glued to the window. The black rocks right before landing, the ocean behind them, then one short, precise decision by the pilot — and you’re on the ground. I found it thrilling, but my Mum was less than impressed.

That’s a fairly typical reaction. Cristiano Ronaldo Airport in Santa Cruz has a reputation as one of the most difficult airports in Europe, and not without reason — but let’s be clear from the start: Madeira’s airport is safe, and the thrill comes mainly from how the landing looks, not from any real risk. Every time I’ve flown in since, I’ve been relaxed — I knew what to expect. And it’s a good thing I knew, because there were times when planes circled over the airport or diverted to Tenerife because of strong winds. That’s not an exception — that’s just Madeira.

Below you can watch my video of landing in Madeira in November 2023:

FNC airport: the basic facts

Why is Funchal airport so famous?

Madeira is about as mountainous as an island can get — and when the airport opened here in July 1964, the only sensible place for a runway was a narrow strip of land along the coastline, almost over the ocean itself. The runway was just 1600 metres long and for years it struck fear into pilots.

The darkest chapter in FNC’s history came on 19 November 1977. A TAP Portugal Boeing 727 flying from Brussels via Lisbon made three approaches — each time the weather made a safe touchdown impossible. On the third approach, in rain and strong wind, the plane touched down, skidded, ran off the runway and plunged 61 metres down an embankment. Of the 164 people on board, 131 died. Until 1989 it was the deadliest air disaster in Portugal, and today it is the second deadliest, after the Independent Air crash in the Azores (144 victims).

Less than a month later, on 18 December 1977, a charter Caravelle of the Swiss company SA de Transport Aérien, flying from Zurich via Geneva, descended below the minimum altitude during a night approach and hit the water. Of the 57 people on board, 36 died. The details of this crash are particularly telling: the captain flying the plane had never landed in Funchal before — the training was meant to take place in daylight, but an unplanned delay on the ground meant they reached Madeira after dark.

These tragedies forced change. Between 1982 and 1986 the runway was extended by 200 metres — as much as the ocean allowed. The breakthrough came in 2000, when an engineering solution worthy of its time was chosen: the runway was extended on 180 pillars driven straight into the seabed, at a height of about 70 metres. In 2002 the rebuilt airport opened with a runway 2781 metres long — almost twice the original length. Since then FNC has not had a single serious accident.

Is landing in Madeira dangerous?

No more than at other demanding airports in Europe — as long as the weather allows it. Airlines run dedicated simulator training for pilots flying to FNC; Funchal is mentioned in the same breath as Innsbruck and Mykonos as an airport that needs extra preparation. Before their first flight to Funchal, a pilot also has to fly the route with a training captain.

The only real complication is strong wind. The wind limits at this airport are exceeded more often than you might think: in measurements from 2016–2026 the wind exceeded them for at least 2 hours on an average of about 48 days a year, most often in March, July and August (how I worked this out). On those days planes circle, wait for a weather window or are diverted to Tenerife, Porto Santo or Lisbon. The landing itself goes like this: a plane arriving from Europe turns and flies parallel to the coastline for a moment, then the pilot precisely puts the aircraft down where the runway begins almost over the water — from the window, the pillars underneath look like the concrete legs of a huge platform. I always sit by the window and try to catch the view of the ocean. Highly recommended.

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1: Enter Air flight to Madeira. Photo: Anita Podrez, 2023, 2: Flying with a dog on Enter Air to Madeira. Photo: Ewelina Podrez-Siama, 2025, 3: Above the clouds on the way to Madeira, February 2025. Photo: Ewelina Podrez-Siama, 4: An Enter Air plane on the apron at Funchal airport, February 2026. Photo: Ewelina Podrez-Siama

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Getting from Madeira Airport to Funchal

The airport is about 13 km from central Funchal, and the drive along the Via Rápida (a toll-free expressway) usually takes about 20–30 minutes. My experience? I’ve used both a taxi and the bus — both work without a hitch.

Aerobus — a dedicated airport line that stops at, among other places, Av. do Mar in central Funchal. It runs every 30–60 minutes, tickets cost €6.70 from the driver or €5.55 with a GIRO card (as of October 2026), and the journey takes about 30 minutes. Taxi, Bolt or Uber — the rank is right outside the arrivals hall; the fare to central Funchal is about €20–35 (+20% at night and at weekends), and the journey takes about 20 minutes.

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1: The viewing terrace at the airport. Photo: Ewelina Podrez-Siama – February 2026, 2: A plane coming in to land in Madeira. Photo: Ewelina Podrez-Siama, February 2026, 3: The airport viewing terrace at night. Photo: Ewelina Podrez-Siama – November 2023, 4: Tesla on the way from the airport to Funchal, February 2025. Photo: Ewelina Podrez-Siama

The viewing terrace at Funchal airport: an underrated bonus

Officially it’s a smoking area, but in practice the airport viewing terrace is one of my favourite “wait for the plane to take off” spots on the island. It’s a large terrace outside the terminal where, when it’s warm, a poncha or a piña colada is waiting for you. Planes come in to land practically overhead. If you have time before your flight, it’s definitely worth popping upstairs for a while.

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Funchal airport: frequently asked questions

How many airports are there in Madeira?

Two. The main one is Cristiano Ronaldo Madeira International Airport (FNC) in Santa Cruz on Madeira. The second airport (PXO) is on the neighbouring island of Porto Santo, which you can reach from Funchal on a Binter flight in about 25 minutes. I write more about this route in my guide to Porto Santo.

Is Madeira airport dangerous?

No — although its reputation as a difficult airport was historically well earned. Since the runway was rebuilt in 2000–2002 and dedicated simulator training was introduced for pilots flying to FNC, the airport has operated safely for more than two decades. The landing is spectacular, but pilots are specially prepared for it.

What happens when the wind makes landing in Funchal impossible?

In extreme weather the flight is diverted to an alternate airport — most often Tenerife or Lisbon. It doesn’t happen every day, but it’s not exceptional either, especially in winter.

Will the airline pay for a hotel if my flight is diverted?

Yes. If a diversion means you can’t fly on to Funchal the same day, the airline is obliged under EU Regulation 261/2004 to provide you with a hotel and transport. That’s not the airline being kind — it’s the law. Bear in mind, though, that wind counts as an extraordinary circumstance, so you won’t get any additional cash compensation (€250–600) in this case.

How far is Funchal airport from the city centre?

About 13 km as the crow flies. Along the Via Rápida it’s about 20 km, which means a 20–30-minute drive in normal traffic.

How do I get from FNC airport to central Funchal?

You have three options: the Aerobus (cheapest, about €6–7), Bolt or a taxi (about €20–35), or a hire car picked up at the airport. The Aerobus runs regularly and stops at several points in the centre.

Which side of the plane should I sit on to see the landing in Funchal?

The right-hand side — that’s where you’ll see the distinctive pillars under the runway and the spectacular approach over the ocean. It’s worth choosing a window seat on the right when you book.

Flying to Madeira isn’t so scary

Madeira’s airport has a difficult history — two crashes in 1977, decades of complaints from pilots, a runway considered one of the hardest in the world. Today it’s a different story.

The airport was thoroughly rebuilt at the turn of the century: a new runway on 180 pillars, dedicated simulator training for pilots flying to FNC and modern navigation systems mean that landing in Funchal — while still spectacular — is completely safe. The statistics confirm it: more than two decades since the rebuild without a single serious incident.

Can strong wind upset your plans? Yes — and it’s worth being prepared for that. In extreme conditions air traffic controllers send planes to an alternate airport, most often Tenerife or Lisbon. It doesn’t happen every day, but it’s not exceptional either — especially in winter. If you end up diverted and the flight to Funchal can only go the next day, the airline is obliged under the EU261 regulation to provide you with accommodation and transport to the hotel. Wind and Madeira’s weather count as force majeure, so you won’t get extra cash compensation — but at least nobody will leave you at the airport with your suitcase and no roof over your head.

Madeira rewards those who arrive with a little flexibility and calm. Funchal airport isn’t an obstacle — it’s part of the island’s character.