Guide

Madeira guide
Madeira is an island you needn’t be wary of – it’s safe, well connected and geared up for visitors, yet far from Canary Islands-style mass tourism. To make the most of it, though, it pays to prepare, because a few things work differently here than on a typical holiday island.
Let’s start with the weather, because it’s the number one topic for anyone planning a trip. Madeira is called the island of eternal spring – the average annual temperature on the coast (Funchal) is around 23°C by day and 17°C at night. But that doesn’t mean it’s always sunny. The island has several distinct microclimates: the south is warmer and drier, the north rainier and greener, and in the mountains (above 1200 m above sea level) the temperature can drop to just a few degrees even when it’s over twenty on the coast. A practical tip: don’t rely on the forecasts you check before the trip – in Madeira they’re rarely right. It’s better to look at the webcams around the island in the morning and choose where to go that day depending on the current conditions.

Getting around Madeira is a topic of its own. A car gives you by far the most freedom – the island has a good road network, including the Via Rápida expressway along the south coast and a network of tunnels through the mountains. The roads can be narrow and winding, though, especially in the north and the interior. Madeira’s bus drivers deserve a special mention – their skill on narrow hairpin bends is impressive. The public bus network covers most of the island, although services can be less frequent outside Funchal. In Funchal itself you’re better off on foot – parking in the city is a challenge, and rush-hour traffic (especially around 18:00, when schools finish) can catch you out. A ferry runs from Funchal to the neighbouring island of Porto Santo (about 2 h 15 min) and usually takes a maintenance break of a few weeks in January. You can buy tickets on the Porto Santo Line website.

Thanks to the warm Gulf Stream, the ocean is pleasant all year round – on average 22°C in summer and 18°C in winter. What Madeira doesn’t have, though, is the typical sandy beaches you know from the mainland. The coast is mostly cliffs and pebbly coves. Only a few beaches have natural dark sand, such as Prainha near Caniçal and the black beach in Seixal, while the light sand in Calheta and Machico was brought in from elsewhere. But the natural rock pools, bathing platforms and lidos all over the island more than make up for it.

As for the budget – Madeira is cheaper than most Western European destinations. A can of local Coral beer (0.33 l) costs about €1 in a supermarket, table wine starts at just over a euro a bottle, and a decent fish lunch in a local restaurant (away from the tourist centre) will cost you less than €20 per person. In Funchal, of course, especially in the Zona Velha and along the waterfront, prices are higher.

In this section you’ll also find information on travelling with a dog (Madeira is surprisingly dog-friendly), festivals and events (Carnival, the Flower Festival, New Year’s Eve with its famous fireworks) and ready-made sightseeing plans laid out day by day – with options for good and not-so-good weather.